Wednesday, February 29, 2012

A flurry of activity

Sitting outside relaxing after work, with avid story teller Osprival Descommes, founder of CIJ
February 22, 2012

There is a refreshing cool breeze tonight, which is quite out of the norm for here. It was yet another stinking hot day here on the jobsite- we really can’t do any work between noon and 3pm- it’s just too hot. So, we worked from 3 until about 6 tonight- much better. Oh, and of course, we worked the morning shift too.

We have had to shift our goals a few times here…everything happens slower than you think, and even when you know this, you can get caught.

February 24, 2012

The crunch is on- we have one more full day with the entire crew to finish whatever we can, and then one day with a partial crew, as we will be traveling to Port au Prince on two different days. This first Endeavour crew to come to Deslandes has been terrific- everyone has adapted quite well to the pace of life here- we have realised that while it’s wonderful to set goals, they aren’t always attainable- sometimes due to lack of materials, or budget, or energy. It is quite draining to work in a really hot climate when you aren’t used to it, but everyone has done well.

We set a goal to finish the compost toilet facility, and will achieve it, but for making the doors. That was out of our control, as they said they couldn’t find wood locally. This was pretty disappointing to the crew, as we really wanted to have the toilets completely ready for the compost toilet folks to come and install the toilets & compost buckets. We’re close, but not quite there. We did manage to finish the clay/straw on the building, do all of the partition block walls (which took longer than any of us had anticipated), two coats of plaster, and today, JP is doing a sculpture on one side of the toilet building.
Laying partition walls out of compressed earth block

We have had lots of help here and there on the project- especially with collection of materials, and doing jobs that might be more fun, but as for the really dirty jobs, it’s hard to get people to join in. It seems to be cultural- people don’t like to get really dirty here. We always have plenty of spectators at the jobsite- a mixture of kids and adults. There is lots of curiousity and praise in what we are doing there.
Plastering the toilet building- the jobsite is a busy place!

We added some green trim around doors & windows to break up the yellow
We are also in the midst of painting the first school building- it’s rather an experimental paint, with nopal cactus juice, pigment, and water. The colours are vibrant, but it’s a difficult paint to work with- it involves lots of pressure, and going over the same spot several times to work the pigment in- the cactus juice seems to suspend the pigment. We’ll try to paint a clear protective coat over the paint (likely a glue/water paint) to preserve the finish. Unfortunately, this was the pigment that Jim provided us with, but no one checked with the community about the colour (big faux pas!). It turns out that one of the nastiest prisons in Haiti was painted a bright yellow, and for Haitians of a certain generation, this colour is still associated with the prisons. We painted the posts green, and put green trim around the doors and windows- this definitely adds something to the building, and cheers it up in a different way. But again, an important reminder to consult a community before moving forward on any project!
We had lots of help painting

We have been most warmly welcomed here in Deslandes, and the relationships with the kids here have had a strong impact on all of us. The kids genuinely love spending time with us, and we each have certain ones who will follow us everywhere. Some of us have been advancing in creole, while others are able to speak in English and be understood just fine.

We’ll be sad to leave Deslandes in a mere two days, but the people of Deslandes will have had as rich an experience as we have in our time here. We look forward to progress reports on the composting toilets.

Our gang, hanging out on the porch after a day of earth block training
JP sculpted a tree onto the side of the building, and Shane did a sun- I forgot my camera in Verrettes, with shots of their finished artwork. 



















Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Movie night in Deslandes


February 18, 2012
Deslandes, Haiti





Movie screen set up using plywood and a sheet


Tonight was the most magical night…maybe the most magical night of my life. Jim & Adriana (Of Tierra y Cal) had a movie night, and they showed Wally (Wall-ee?). 
The movie!

After at least an hour of problem solving (getting the generator going, and all of the projectors talking to one another), they were up and rolling, without sound (well, there was sound through a small set of speakers). I sat with Mimi on my lap, Mischli lying across my lap asleep, and Dine lying on top of Mischli- I was in heaven, and cried a few tears of…I don’t know exactly what emotion as these precious young beings clung on to me- I was joyful and sad all at the same time. The kids laughed heartily at the appropriate times, despite not being able to hear the soundtrack- animation is a beautiful thing!

Captive audience, all ages

I just went out into the field on my own (at 10:15pm) and I can hear another voodoo ceremony drumming across the fields, crickets singing, and a few roosters crowing. All is well as I get myself ready for bed on this Saturday night in Deslandes.

Dead Goat Laundry

We have finished our stint in Deslandes- at least, the group has. I will return after they fly out to paint an aliz coat on the building, followed by a protective glue & water coat. We ate extremely well when in Deslandes- fresh fruit, bread, freshly made peanut butter, bread, and on good days, freshly squeezed lemon or grapefruit juice.

Lunches were always a hot pot of some sort- a stew, or 'mayi' (hot cornmeal with veggies), and dinners (my favourite) included fried plantains, picklese (spicey cabbage salad), sometimes fries, often rice, some sort of meat dish with sauce (or fish, or sometimes fried chicken). In any case, you get the picture- eating locally produced, fresh food daily. Benitta works hard along with Madame Alien to feed us. It was all going swimmingly well until Dave & Paul saw them kill a goat in the backyard- apparently with a very dull knife. From there, all of our lunches & dinners included goat- and all goat parts. It got to the point where things were just too goaty- so I had to gently ask Benitta (put a positive spin on things!) if we could have chicken for dinner again- that we LOVE her fried chicken (true, true!). I also mentioned that Canadians aren't really used to eating goat, but that I LOVED it (a bit of a white lie, but I was trying not to hurt her feelings. When I go back, I might have to pay for that lie- she may serve me up goat entrails as a specialty!).

In any case, the day after the real goaty meal, Paul & I were doing laundry in Benitta's backyard. It smelled too goaty, so we moved over into our own backyard to finish the laundry. We realised that we could still smell goat...and then made the realisation that the tubs we were washing our clothes in had likely been used for....goat. I admit, I'm not a fan of the smell. But I persisted and finished my laundry- left it flapping in the breeze for an extra day, just because I could.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

February 17, 2012: Deslandes on a Friday night


Friday nights are party nights here in Deslandes- the generator is running, and my Haitian friends are in the dining hall across the road, playing dominoes and sipping Babancourt rum, which is more tasty (and pricey) than Baccara, the rum I have been accustomed to drinking here.

The mood is festive, and here across the road from the dining hall, sits our crew outside in the courtyard, enjoying banter about this & that, and having sampled some of the fine rum ourselves.

We’re pretty pleased with our work and progress to date- the block walls in the washroom stalls are now done, and we’re ready to put a coat of plaster on the exterior of the building. We also painted a couple of coats of ‘experimental’ paint- nopale cactus juice, water, and pigment. We did two coats with the yellow iron oxide, and it looks SO much better already!

I am loving seeing our group interact with the kids- that was my big draw to this community, and I’m tickled to see each of our gang connect in really meaningful ways with the kids of this community.

This remains a special place for me, and my bond to the community grows deeper each time I come here, and with my developing language skills, I continue to be able to forge more profound relationships with people.

Life is simple here- quite simply! When you have limited resources, and ittle electricity, you find other means of entertainment. The most common is sitting around talking, playing cards, or dominoes. Occasionally, we play live music, and then there is dancing and merriment to beat the band. I love the naivety of our time here, and the simplicity of our interactions. 

The Endeavour team are heavily immersed in a more rural way of life here in the village of Deslandes. We all prefer the pace of Deslandes to Port au Prince, and the setting is much more beautiful.

En route to Deslandes, Ospri arranged for us to go to the ocean- and rather than go to the private beach he had in mind, we went to a public one right beside it (less money for the same ocean front!) and swam for a couple of hours. Then began the real journey to Deslandes- which involves driving along the highway for a couple of hours, and then onto a dirt road for…close to an hour. We got out of the vehicle at some point to hike down to the river (the Artibonite River) where we were ferried across in a rowboat after all of our luggage had been taken across. Some villagers came to take some of our luggage in wheelbarrows, and then we each picked up a pack and began the 30 or 40 minute hike to the village.

The view from the Artibonite River is stunning- palm trees, coconut trees, and lush plants- all things that are absent in the concrete confines of Port au Prince. Centre d’Inspiration Jeunesse (CIJ) own some farmland that stretches down to the river, with an irrigation system rigged up via a generator & pump. This allows them to grow beans, melons, broccoli, tomatoes, eggplant, and an abundance of other foods.

We arrived just as the earthblock crew started working on the second school building here in Deslandes, and got to see the compressed earthblock machine in action. The crew is moving quickly and doing a great job. We decided as a group to jump on to finishing the compost toilet facility that was started last year, which involved finishing a bit of the clay/straw walls, laying earthblocks for the interior walls, and plastering. Everyone is pitching in, with leaders naturally emerging. We are doing really quality work, and every day there are more spectators who come along to see what we are doing. Some people come by to observe, while others come by to participate.

There are lots of slow-downs here, one being the extreme heat (extreme to us- this is winter in Haiti- summer is apparently unbearable), lack of basic materials (such as buckets, levels, drills). We have to walk across the equivalent of a football field to go and fetch buckets of water, and the same for wheelbarrows of clay and sand. Finding straw to put into the clay/straw walls, and the plaster, involves a longer walk (20 minutes?) across several fields and through some banana groves, and the green clay that we really want to use in our finish coat will involve going back across the river and hiking. I definitely told people it wouldn’t be easy here, which it isn’t, but the amazing connections and experiences with the kids at the school balance out any negatives. The kids are magical, fun, and delightful. I have especially enjoyed watching the interactions between our crew and the kids here. I think it’s those relationships we have formed with the youth here that  has made each of us fall in love with this paradise. 

When we get to a site with high speed, I’ll send photos of our projects- the block walls in the toilet stall are now complete, and we’ll move onto plastering the toilet building next. Yesterday part of our team painted a colour coat onto the existing school using a novel and experimental recipe of nopale cactus, water, and iron oxide pigments. We’ll have to see how durable it is- I suspect if we don’t paint a protective coat over it, they’ll have to repaint at least annually.

This morning I was awakened at 5am by a church ceremony, and a cacophony of roosters crowing and calling to one another across the neighbourhood. Now the drums and singing sound more like they are part of a voodoo celebration…Haiti is a beautiful and magical place!

February 13, 2012: First day for our crew on the jobsite


We had a wonderful welcome to the community after breakfast today- Ospri. Kazimi and Claubert welcomed us on behalf of CIJ- we sat around a tree, because in traditional voodoo ceremony, you sit around a special kind of post or totem, so the tree represented that cymbol, to mark the fact that we’re in a country where most people at least have some sort of belief in voodooism.

We did a tour of the jobsite, starting with the compressed earth block machines, and then went on to look at the first earthblock school, followed by a tour of the unfinished clay/straw toilet building that Ian & I started last year.

Ospri, Claubert and Kazimi took us on a hike down to the farm by the river, and that was a hit- it truly is beautiful, and it’s really nice to be able to share the beauty of Haiti with groups of people, rather than only get a taste of Port au Prince.

We made our work plan, and decided to finish the clay/straw washrooms that Ian & I had started last year. It’s great- the team divided up naturally, and the earth block crew (for dividing walls) took down the not so good block walls, while the clay/straw crew went off in search of materials.

After dinner, Ospri asked if we would like to go for a walk- he took us down the road a bit to a neighbour’s house- an elder, and a healer, was hosting a voodoo ceremony. Often here in Deslandes, I fall asleep to the sounds of the voodoo drumming…it’s a beautiful, magical sound.

It was quite an honour to be invited to the ceremony- before we entered, Ospri asked permission…we could hear the excitement of the drums, and the singing. When we got inside, it was the most incredibly moving, vibrant experience of my life- we were under a thatch roof, lit by candles, with a group of women leading songs, drummers beating out a lively rhythm, and everyone dancing. The elder was quite taken with me, at some point, and asked me to dance with him a couple of times. This, too, was an honour- I can’t even describe the evening in words, but suffice it to say, it was truly spectacular.


Deslandes, February 12, 2012



We made it! The entire crew is now in Deslandes. We have had varying degrees of stomache woes, so hopefully now that we’re stationed here, there will be less issues with sanitation.

Our ride was about an hour late this morning due to the gas shortage- during this shortage, gas is being sold for 80 Haitian dollars/litre, which translates to 400 gourdes, or roughly $10 American- how the heck can anyone afford to drive here? I have yet to understand where Haitians get money from, how they actually survive. Andy & I asked Samuel the other night, and after lots of speculation, he said, ‘I don’t know where the hell they get their money from either- it’s a mystery’. So strange!

We stopped at a beach- Ospri had told our driver to go to a private beach (thinking that we would prefer it), but we all balked at the $15/person entry fee- and went instead to a public beach next door, for $1/person- much more reasonable. And real. There were vendors in our faces selling their wares, and the crew ate some beach food, we drank prestige, and swam in the ocean. It was nice- but oddly enough, shortly after getting there, it got quite cloudy & breezy- almost chilly- the coolest I’ve ever felt it here!

A brief stop at a grocery store in St. Marc, then off to Verrettes where Ospri & his accountant & I met to have a quick business meeting.

We drove as far in as we could, and then were ferried across the river in the boat (after watching our luggage go, and dearly hoping that it didn’t get wet, or tip over!). At some point along the route, we had to get out of the boat to walk the rest of the way, as the water was too shallow for the boat to pass.

We weren’t expecting to have to hike in with our packs- the initial idea was to have the packs driven directly in (the long, long bumpy way in), but in the end, that didn’t happen, I love hiking into Deslandes carrying my belongings with me-  it felt good after being cooped up within the walls of the Grassroots Compound.

It is truly beautiful here- on the trip here, I was trying to see Haiti through the eyes of my newcomers, trying to point out little things I had observed, and once we got to the river, drinking in the beauty of this area anew. It’s in such contrast to the dirty city.

Benitta made a beautiful meal for us- picklese (cabbage salad with some heat), fried chicken, fried plantain, potatoes & breadplant  an eggplant dish, and a gigantic plate of spaghetti. We were well taken care of, and received a warm welcome from everyone. They are doing a great job of trying to host our group- this is the first time the community has received paying guests, and they want to do it up proper.

The generator hums in the background- they wanted extra power to be able to light up the courtyard to allow my guys to set up their tents. I think they’re going to love being here- the rhythm is relaxed, and people are friendly.

Bedtime, at 9:16pm!

My group has arrived

The Endeavour Centre group arrived on the 8th- and so far, they've integrated themselves quite wonderfully into the world here at HC. They are energetic, resourceful, and fun- and I really look forward to introducing them to Deslandes. They jumped into projects here for the few days we were here, such as painting, plastering, building a new hen house, building a washing station, and helping do a container conversion. They rock!

We're sitting here on the front porch on a sweltering hot day, waiting for our ride to get here. They're an hour late so far...so when I finally reached them, they explained that they've been driving around the city looking for gas- there's a gas shortage on in the country. Hmmm, maybe not the best day to drive to the beach and then on to Deslandes? They feel confident that they'll find some, so I suppose I'll trust that. Gas shortages happen pretty regularly here in Haiti, and then the black market emerges- people sell gas at the side of the road, sometimes with water added to make it stretch further (eeek!). A wee bit of political strife happening in the city, and the gas shortage may mean we stay close to the base here. Makes my job easier!

Looking forward to getting to Deslandes, though- I'm craving the village life already!




Sunday, February 12, 2012


First Day on the Jobsite in Deslandes

It’s so interesting to kind of be looking in from the outside- they have tried to do a lot of work with the head of the construction here, and have worked on team building, but once it was time to start working, all of the good work seemed to have gone out the window, and the idea of assigning tasks got pushed aside, and a bit of chaos ensued as some people jumped onto task, while others stood around. There are 19 people who are being trained in the art of laying earth blocks, amongst them some women- which is revolutionary for Haiti. I'm thrilled about that, and look forward to having my women meet theirs.
11,000 compressed earth blocks, waiting to be placed into the new school
Carrying block to the site

Levelling ground inside building

The earth block machine needed a bit of tweaking but they eventually got it working again to churn out the last of the blocks that are needed.

They realise that they need a mechanic on site for repairs 
The tool shed is a disaster once again- sorry that Ian has to read this, since we tried to clean it up last year. A lot of the trowels seem to have gone walking, unfortunately, as have other tools. Fortunately, many of the donated tools that we sent in the container are still in Verrettes in the house there, and they are secure, but it’s a problem when you want to get work done here, yet some of the key tools are missing. It’s hot today (I’m overdressed in my jeans, I confess), and they are working on getting both the block machine and the generator fixed. Hmmm, a familiar story- just like last year!
Interior of the first earth block school in Deslandes

I had a good meeting with the team here, though, and we made a more firm plan for how to integrate my crew into the work here. There’s no shortage of things to do here- plaster repairs on the first building, plastering the compost toilet building Ian & built last year, repairing the failed stairs that the crew made last year at the grand entrance to the school, and so on. I think we’ll be able to do some earth block, and some other add-ons too. Actually, this afternoon, I went with the konbit (working collectives) farmers down to their ‘experimental gardens’, which represents a lot of hard work with trying to do companion planting, planting crops in raised beds vs. flat, using compost or not, and so on. The crops look great- some really amazing looking eggplants, a plethora of different beans & squashes, potatoes & sweet potatoes, corn, tomatoes, and so much more, all of this interplanted amongst banana & papaya trees.
The konbit group discussing their gardens

So, maybe we can go and lend a hand with watering or weeding the acreage there, which would involve a really lovely walk down to the river. Those are the beautiful moments from today- that, along with being with some of my groups of kids- the ones who remembered ‘Frere Jacques’ (they taught me to sing it in creole last year, and I taught them French & English)…they are so sweet.

Less sweet is the fact that today’s meetings went overtime (surprise, surprise!), and I wasn’t able to get back to Port au Prince to meet my group in the end- I’m really disappointed about that, and feel badly, yet I also realise that this was a really important outing, to come to Deslandes ahead of time and be able to cess things out and make a ‘real’ plan. We had a long meeting this morning which proved to be critical in figuring out certain details of our stay here, which was ideal in that the key players were all in Deslandes at the same time.
















I had to accept that this is how it has to be, since there is nothing I can do about it. So, onward! I'm sure they'll do just fine on their own- they're in good hands- I've asked the gang back at HC to make sure they can get a tab going at the Hole in the Wall, so I think it will be OK! 

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Deslandes, 2012- The 12 hour journey




Wednesday, February 8, 2012

So here I am, waking up in Deslandes, after a journey that lasted pretty much the entire day. It’s a strange and beautiful place- I had forgotten about the cacophony of the ‘screaming’ roosters that start quite early in the morning…whereby roosters seemingly from miles away call out, and then you hear one that is closer respond, and one that is closer, until there is one that sounds like it’s under your pillow.. They are incredibly loud, and persistent, but oddly, I can doze off to sleep again.


So, I’m up at 6am, and I heard festive music playing, so asked a young boy (because he’s up already, helping in the kitchen), and apparently the delivery guys had to stay overnight (they got here really late last night to drop off lumber & supplies), so now they’re up and making playing loud music in the field.




My favourite girls- who I share the compound with when I'm there
I’ve already seen some of the kids from last year, and have had a warm welcome- the best was from little Mimi, who must be just over 2 years old now- (I suppose she could be 3). She saw me and came running up to me for a hug with shining eyes- Mimi, who was afraid of me last year, who I had to work up to a point of comfort before she would let me hold her. Of course, my favourite Mimi memory was when I sang to her in Gaelic one night when she was being fussy, and she fell asleep in my chest.
Adorable Mimi!

So, I was to be picked up yesterday at 5am for this venture to the countryside, but of course, 5 was more like 6. So, my ride came at 6, and then I was dropped off at the place where Ospri & Mike were staying.

We had coffee, half a boiled egg, and a banana...and waited until Jim (the earth block specialist) was picked up, and then went off to quite a fancy hotel (the Plaza) for a breakfast buffet where we ate on the outdoor terrace.

From there, we went to the hardware store to ensure that Jim's order was correct (which was a good plan, since there were errors & omissions)- that took over an hour, I'm guessing. Finally, we headed out of the city, but traffic was brutal for quite awhile. The smog, car pollution, and constant smell of burning plastic...ahhh, now that's the Haiti I remember. Horns constantly beeping, and crazy traffic patterns....as in, anyone can do anything at any time! Motorcycles especially weave in and out of traffic, but there is also all kinds of crazy passing, criss-crossing, and turning around in the middle of the road kind of traffic going on. But the colours, the life, the excitement that I remember oh so well- this is the Haiti I love. Being stuck in the concrete compound at Grassroots is such a different experience. 
The colourful buses...usually with some sort of religious saying on them
Now THAT's how to load a pickup truck!




We had a few more stops to make, too...like getting gas and exchanging money, which turned into a bit of a longer venture than one might imagine...followed by yet another stop at a side vendor to buy fruit (which also took way longer than I would have thought! Second last stop was at a supermarket kind of store to get some supplies for kitchen. 

A flavour of the street traffic

We took a far more scenic route this time, following the seashore, which meant that we had to go on the long, lonnnnnngggg looooooooonnnnnnnnnnnggggggg dirt road that I have only gone on by motorcycle before- it's a rough ride on a bike, but way rougher in an SUV type rig (or were we in a jeep?) Going this longer route allowed us to drive directly into Deslandes, vs. having to leave the vehicle on the other side of the river, cross, and then walk a couple of km. We had too much gear to do this option, but it sure was a tough ride in a vehicle without any shocks (or at least, there's not much life in them), so it was an excruciatingly slow, rough ride. It was like riding on some mountain path, with gigantic ruts all over the road. 

When we were ALMOST here (no, not true, we were probably still 15 or so minutes away), we stopped because Ospri wanted to show Mike a tamarind tree= and of course, a local boy climbed way up into the tree to pick some fruit for us! In the meantime, there was a very young woman standing in a gate with three very young children- one babe in her arms. I asked if they were hers (in my developing creole!) and she said yes. Her nudy-butt baby reached out for me, so I took her in my arms, and she just smiled as she played with my hair and stroked my face. It was some fun! I adored that moment, and felt at home...home away from home.
The beautiful tamarind tree

Benitta made us a big spread for dinner, and after dinner, people ended up going to bed pretty early. It feels great to be back here, and I look forward to meeting up with my group later tonight. Given my late arrival here, I have arranged for someone from Haiti Communitère to go pick them up.




Plaster, plaster!

We did a second coat of plaster on one of the bottle walls today (plastic bottles, that is). These walls were made as panels, and one side is already plastered, before they were erected, so we did the finish coat of plaster. It's funny, as plasterers- you figure you know what to do, and while that's true to a certain extent, there is still a lot of experimenting to do- the sand wasn't sifted finely enough in the beginning, for instance...and then, the pre-plastered walls were SUPER dry, so I spent several hours wetting them down.  The plaster went off super super quick (Jean-Louis told me that the cement we used isn't the preferable kind, so that is good information- another brand is better). Good information for next time! So, Jean-Louis applied plaster, and I alternated between wetting the walls down ahead of him and sponging after he had put the plaster on, as there was NO way to smooth the plaster once it was trowelled on. I'm not sure why I didn't post this from the other day, but will do so now, along with a photo of the finished building- while I was away in Deslandes, Annio & Jean-Louis finished the plaster on the walls (well, there's a base coat of earth on the interior & clay/straw walls), and Andy painted it. It looks really, really sweet! And I mean sweet in the...sweetest of ways!
Jean Louis & Annio- Jean Louis said that Annio is his best friend!
Andy painting
I love the louvres and the two rooflines on this building





Sunday, February 5, 2012

Superbowl in Haiti?

OK, I'm definitely not what I'd call a football fan- I used to watch football occasionally with my dad, and I enjoyed that, especially when he explained the game to me. But to go to an event touted as a superbowl party? I've never done that before. However, once I got to feeling better (ie, the nausea and other stomach ailments subsided), I decided to join my beach friends to go out to the Caribbean Lodge for the Superbowl event. There was a fundraiser occuring there at the same time, for Rebuild Globally, a Haitian company who make sandals out of used tires. Julie Colombino, and amazing American woman,  has been instrumental in getting this company up and going. In any case, the big draw for me was the half time show at the lodge- Julie used to dance for Cirque du Soleil, and she did an incredible dance up in the air holding onto and wrapping silk scarves around her body- incredible! The Caribbean Lodge isn't my style- it has a similar feeling (to me at least) as the UN restaurant does- a place that caters to white people with money. There was a pool, an all you can eat buffet (seems a bit ironic, or even wrong, given that so many people in Haiti have to work so hard to get one meal a day!), and a band that played live music out by the pool until the game started. All in all, quite festive, and vodka jello shots with whipped cream were the big hit for the fundraiser (um, no thanks. even when my stomach isn't queazy....not for me!).

And so, there you have it- I lay back on my lounge chair by the pool, ignored the game on the screen (that was partially hidden anyway by the grass roof of the bar), and looked at the moon & stars- tried to wrap my head around the difference between what I was seeing here, and what I would see at home, and how I saw the sky in both Thailand and Turkey earlier this winter.

Maybe I'll be going to Deslandes tomorrow- who knows?

For now, I don't know (nor do I much care) who won the game tonight, but I sure enjoyed sharing the night with these folks who are becoming my Haiti family, all of these international volunteers, some of whom have stayed here for the duration, others who, like myself, return when they can. I feel delightfully spoiled by my experiences, and quite privileged, for sure.



My musings: quiet weekends, traveller's diarrhea and lifers

Well, it's Sunday, and I was awakened by several loudspeaker church services- lots of singing, and then that kind of 'yelling-preaching' thing that drives me crazy. That was at 6:00am- not as bad as last year on Christmas day when it started about 4:30am. As Annio said the other day, pastors in Haiti never get tired- which I found comical. There are services all day long, or at random times, anyway- Jean-Louis & Annio said they don't actually post the times, the pastor just shows up and makes noise, and people go to church. I'm sure it's more organised than that, but then again...maybe not!







These containers have been reconfigured to provide nice sleeping quarters with some office space. 




Containers, containers and more containers. 
 I'm sitting here at an almost deserted base camp- it's the weekend, and people tend to go off and have adventures, especially the long term volunteers who get close to burn out without such outings. We worked yesterday, so didn't join in on any of the fun, but a group of folks (including Chad & Emma from last year) went to Jacmel for a get-away. Today another group of folks went to the beach, and I was invited to go, but alas, traveller's illness has struck. It's nothing serious- the expected diarrhea and a nauseous stomach, but easier to lay low and let the immodium do its thing. So, once again, I missed a trip to the beach. I'm not much of one for swimming or for beaches either, but when you're on base camp (which is quite a concrete compound), any outing is usually interesting.
A snapshot of an excavation for an experimental type of building, Ubuntu blocks, which is essentially taking plastic garbage and making bales from it. Note Corinne the goat hanging around. Haiti Communitére is surrounded by the block wall that you see here, with barbed wire & broken glass on top of the walls. You see this everywhere in cities here.


 I'm told that one of the tent camps near the airport has been evacuated (Jean-Louis told us that the government paid each family a sum of between 2,000-4,000 Haitian dollars. Conversion rates- multiply by 5 to get gourdes, which makes 10,000-20,000 gourdes; convert to American dollars, and you get between $247-495 USD. I am now questioning whether that is the real sum he told us- if so, it's nothing! Jean Louis pays 5000 Haitian dollars (about $619 USD) for rent for a year...so if this is the sum that was given to families in tents, I wonder how many of them have gone out to rent a place elsewhere, when they also have to buy the basics to survive...it doesn't seem like enough money, nor like a solution to a housing crisis.  Also, apparently the rubble collection has improved as well. I'll see when we drive to Deslandes, as we will go by a few of the former tent communities.

I haven't even left the base camp since arriving, apart from going to the little money exchange kiosk down the laneway. I'm to go to Deslandes, likely tomorrow, to get the lay of the land before my group from Endeavour arrives. I want to ensure that we actually have tools, see what stage things are at, make sure we have accommodation ready for us, etc. I'm sure all is well, but I feel like I need to see it for myself before the gang comes.
Here's a shot of the workroom at HC- there are trusses up in between two shipping containers, and a pad that was poured last year when I was here. They are better equipped with tools here than in Deslandes (note chop saw, table saw), and there is electricity here too. In Deslandes there is a generator, but not always fuel...so hand tools are best. I look forward to seeing all of the donated tools we sent over in a shipping crate last year in Deslandes. 

Things are really different here at the base- for many reasons. The administration has changed, with some Haitian community members as part of the board, plus two of the key international workers who have been here since the beginning. The name change from Grassroots United to Haiti Communitère reflects that this is now an organisation working for Haitians, by Haitians- the country is no longer in a post disaster state (although the disorganisation is still quite similar to where it was prior to the earthquake, I'm sure). This way Grassroots United will continue to operate as a separate entity, to be ready to deploy a team of people to another country in need, post disaster.

I assumed that some folks, the ones I like to think of as the 'lifers' would be here forever, but as Sam (director) mentioned yesterday, the volunteers who are here now are doing different things, and those who were here right after the earthquake are necessarily of a different ilk. That makes good sense to me now- the ones who can jump in amidst chaos and help make order, who are creative and resourceful, who can prioritise jobs that need doing, are critical when a country is in a state of emergency, but afterwards, other volunteers can step in to carry the torch.

There are far less projects happening here on the base than in the past- might be the time of year...the bus hasn't been on the road lately (they're working out some paperwork issues), so once that is operational again, I imagine groups of volunteers will be able to continue doing projects in the city and outlying areas, if needed.
The bus is looking real swank now with the paintings on it. I need to find out more about it!


Ian, one of the volunteers who comes & goes from Haiti, is back again for a stretch of time. He invited a few of us to dinner last night, which was a real treat- Delph made a tasty salad, and Ian sauteed chilies, onions & garlic with potatoes, pan seared steaks, and this was topped with 3 bottles of very nice red wine- oh, what more could one want! It was nice to hang out with this small group of the 'older guard' for a private dinner at the café.
Delphine & Ton live in these dwellings on top of a container- with the Café in between them. This is where we ate our delicious dinner last night. 



Toilets and richness in Haiti **post from March 31, 2011


***Formerly unposted, from 2011

March 31, 2011
Deslandes, Haiti

Several days ago we went to a site to look at potential bamboo for the roof of the washroom- it was at Alius’ place. When we arrived, we were suddenly in paradise, surrounded by fruit trees of all kinds (mango, coconut, banana, papaya), and it was several degrees cooler. We happened upon Alius’ house, which is clad in teche, a type of leaf pulled from a tree. He was nowhere to be found, despite St. Geste calling him…so St. Geste went looking for him. At one point, he called out to us, laughing, to come see Aluis. Alius was napping on the ground, above his corn plantation that is in a wetland, above the river. This beautiful elder awoke from his dream state to be surrounded by 3 blancs and St. Geste, and he burst out laughing- and continued to laugh for quite a long while. We decided that his bamboo wouldn’t work for the roof, as it would need to dry adequately before going into the building, but he really wanted to give us each a coconut so we could drink the milk. He has ample fruit, which he sells at market, and he said he doesn’t need to ever leave his property- small wonder, in a bit of paradise like that, I can’t blame him. He was quite tickled by our visit, as we were with ours. I hope to have another opportunity to visit him before leaving.

Our composting toilet facility is going a bit slower (maybe even a lot!) than we anticipated, despite good progress. It has been incredibly hot here the last few days, with each day getting successively hotter, or so it seems to us (confirmed by some local folks too!). The heat makes us move slowly, but most of our delays have come from lack of materials. Yesterday, for example, we were waiting on lumber for the roof (can’t use bamboo, as it is fresh, and would need to be dry before using), and we also needed bamboo leaves for stuffing into the clay/straw wall cavities. Finally, at the end of the day, we headed to the fields ourselves with a charming group of young helpers, and collected the leaves.

We did a test chamber of the clay/straw mix the other day, and it seemed to work out fine- I wasn’t sure how the bamboo leaves would behave, but so far so good. This entire build has involved making substitutions, being resourceful, and ‘making do’ at other times, as materials are hard to come by here. We are quite confident that the building is well tied down to the foundation, and will be both earthquake and hurricane resistant.

It was a delightful walk down to the farm with the kids to get the bamboo. They are so interesting, and inquisitive. They started asking lots of questions about Canada, especially in terms of what we grow there in terms of food. One little boy commented that in Haiti, they are lucky, because peasants can walk outside and pick  lots of food to eat, whereas in Canada, we had to work all the time and pay money for things (we hadn’t told him that- but he was bang on!), and he thus felt that they are ‘rich’. And he’s so right!

Benitta came by to the jobsite to see our washroom, and we had a nice chat. I mentioned how incredible it is that women work such long days in Haiti- she agreed- all day long, she concurred. And then I mentioned that some men don’t seem to do much, while others work hard, but that ALL women work all day long, and she agreee, all day long.


You really can’t ever work or volunteer in Haiti (and survive) unless you are highly adaptable. You have to throw out any prior sense of scheduling and expectations of timelines, and just….go with the flow. Point in case, Jim is here from Mexico to work on the new block machine with the crew (and it rocks!), but they had to spend his first day here trying to get the machine going (it was supposed to all be done before he arrived by their mechanic). So, they had a couple of half days of productivity, and then yesterday morning, the crew had to sit there, waiting for gas for the machine! It took the entire morning to get gas there, and the crew lay patiently in the shade. They were anxious to get going, but without being stressed about the delay.

Ian & I poured the last section of floor on the washroom yesterday- over an earthblock base. This resulted in a mere 1.5 inched of concrete, verses 4 or 5 inches, so we’ll see how it holds up. Less cement is always good!

And today, we have enough material for wall stuffing to be able to invite a couple of classes out to help us stuff walls- I really wanted to do a participatory build, and am excited to have kids involved. I’m thinking that with our various delays, in order to achieve our goal of finishing the roof & the walls, that we will need to rope in some extra hands over the next few days, both from the crew here, and from kids & parents. The biggest challenge will be collecting enough bamboo leaf material in a timely enough fashion. I think we can do it….but what we realised yesterday, is that we won’t have time to go back to Grassroots to help install a bamboo roof on the composting toilet facility. I had (naively, now, because I’ve been here for almost 3 months total now!) originally thought we could quickly bang off these washrooms, and then scoot back to help with the roof, but silly me! Here we are, hoping we can even finish these washrooms before leaving!

I find myself enjoying the simplicity of my life here- I wake up early each day- earlier as time goes along (these days, 4:30 or so), and am out of bed by 5:30am. Mornings are a symphony of cocks crowing, and the foot traffic has already started. I saunter over to the outdoor kitchen and do the dishes. This has been a good way to start the day, being immersed with women folk, listening to banter and laughing along with them. My creole is at a stage where I can half understand about half of what is going on, which allows me to then ask pertinent questions for clarification.

I can imagine spending lengths of time here in the future. I am not drawn to the larger centres, but

There was a death in our midst yesterday. An elderly couple live at St. Geste’s place, in an open building. The man became sick and died at the hospital (same hospital mentioned earlier), and they say it was cholera. I don’t suppose it is confirmed, but it is quite likely that it was cholera. Pity, when it is clearly treatable. Speaking of cholera, on our bamboo journey yesterday, the kids wanted to ‘show us’ the river, so we went down to the Artibonite River, and they immediately stripped down to go swimming. We gave our white arguments against going into the river, stating that they might get cholera- and they said, oh no, the cholera has already floated downstream…we debated, not really wanting them to go into the water, and not wanting to have to go in ourselves to save them, should that occur, but in the end, we realised that kids want to be kids, and they clearly are still in the habit of swimming in the river, and here was an opportunity for them to cool off on what was the hottest day in our stay here to date…so they stripped right down and plunged into the water, giggling and splashing one another with water. Ian had told them not to open their mouths, but they all dove in and came out sputtering up water.

I learned a lot just walking around with these young boys to go find the bamboo leaves- they are all incredibly knowledgeable of their natural world, with all of them being able to point out irritants in the plant world, which plants were medicinal, which were edible, and so on. One of them quite astutely remarked that Haitian peasants can just go walking to find an abundance of fruit trees for food, while Canadians have to work, then go shopping and spend money for food- he feels that they are more rich than we are. I have to agree with him- Haitians are far more rich than North Americans, in so many ways.

Slow pace, entry from March 30, 2011


**An entry that wasn't posted from last year...

March 30, 2011           
Deslandes, Haiti

I am feeling so content, just being here in Haiti. There is a sense of calm, of peace, and a definite lack of urgency to most everything that goes on. Even medical emergencies, as we were to find out earlier today.

I was heading out to the jobsite, when one of $$$, who works in the kitchen, came and asked me for some aspirin for Adé, who was lying down, not feeling well. When I came back with ibuprofen, they told me that she was clamping her teeth tightly- classic seizure symptoms, so I ran to get Ian, since I figured as a firefighter, his first aid would be helpful. Her pulse was fast, but faint in her extremities, and she didn’t react to being prodded, her name being called, sugar in the mouth. (She did stir somewhat with alcohol in her nose, and with a flashlight being shone in her eyes). She was essentially comatose, occasionally fading in & out of consciousness. So, we decided she should go to the hospital…and we suggested they construct a stretcher for taking her (remember, we’re in Deslandes- calling an ambulance isn’t an option!). The Haitians decided they would take her by motorcycle to the hospital, with people holding her on either side…we tried to say it wouldn’t work, but they put her on the bike..and of course, she slid off. Luckily, we caught her….and moments later, someone came back on a motorcycle with a stretcher. So, four of us set off to walk to the hospital- maybe it was a kilometer away?, along the gravelly road. Along the way, people asked what was wrong, or who it was, but only one other person tagged along to help spell us off from carrying her (and a rag-doll body is heavy!).

When we got to the hospital, we set the stretcher down on the dirty porch floor, where we were greeted by several administrators, and other people who definitely weren’t in a hurry about anything. They said, oh yes, Adé, we’ve seen her before. When we asked them to check her vitals, maybe give her an IV to give her fluids, they said they’d have to assess her first, and then they proceeded to chat about other sick patients, and to joke around…with her still lying unconscious on the ground. Finally, the one guy (who was neither nurse nor doctor) took her temperature, and then eventually (after they found her records) the nurse took her blood pressure. After another 5 or so minutes, they admitted us into the hospital (open air courtyard) where we (they were nowhere to be seen) had to lift her onto the hospital bed, and the nurse finally came with a drip bag for her. Adé is apparently alright now, has been talking a bit and is conscious, but holy cow! Reminder to self: don’t ever get into position where you have to go to hospital here!

Apart from that, we have continued to be busy with our build, and are quite pleased with the details we have invented based on materials at hand. Of course, we consulted with some of our Canadian natural building engineer buddies first, and now we are realising the composting toilet facility with what we have at hand. We feel we have done a good job of tying everything together to protect against wind lift, and with the X-bracing and other details, are comfortable with its earthquake rating.


We are going to invite a few classes to come help stuff the clay/straw walls- it is their washroom, and they will have fun doing it- or so we hope! We also plan on doing a pebble mosaic detail around the exterior of the building, and will have each student in the school lay a stone somewhere in the foundation. Might as well involve as many students as possible!


It has been busy with blancs here in Deslandes- many key members of CIJ have been here, in addition to a partner organization, Partners in Action. Fun times, and interesting to learn more about the history of CIJ. I have been called in to translate in a couple of meetings this week, and that has been really good for me-I feel like I have made a break-through with my creole, finally, finally! What a relief! I can do past & future tense, and have more vocabulary- am starting to understand a bit more of spoken creole- so I’m feeling better about my progress. Of course, if I avoided English & French completely, I’d be much further along in my language journey, but I’m pleased nonetheless.

Once again, I am internet-less, but this time, I haven’t missed it- which feels good. It is such a good thing, slowing down, just going with the flow when half of your materials haven’t yet arrived, and just…being.

“I love my life!”

March 25, 2011, in Deslandes


Friday, March 25, 2011
Deslandes, Haiti

I am back in Deslandes, where I can once again breathe clean(er) air- there aren’t constant burning smells, but still, occasional garbage burning.

Ian Thomson, fellow Canadian, friend, and killer woodworker, arrived on Wednesday to what was a perfect introduction to Haiti. Our ride, from St. Geste & Jean Baptiste, had been waiting at the airport since 10am, for another friend of Ospri’s. Ian’s flight arrived on time at around 1:30, and the boys decided to take us to GrassRoots where we could relax, while they returned to the airport to wait for Mabi. They didn’t really know what time Mabi would arrive, or what airline she had flown with- they had very little definite information, apart from the fact that she was flying in from California. So, we went to GrassRoots, which was great, as we got to tour the various buildings, and then at some point, St. Geste & Jean Baptiste came in, saying that Mabi hadn’t arrived after all. They had spent an entire DAY at the airport, in extreme heat, and she didn’t arrive!

So, then our hair-raising drive to Verrettes. It seemed like a regular trip to me, but I’m certain Ian thought he was going to done for a couple of times. People passing on every side, driving the wrong way down the road- the regular driving habits here.

We passed by several forest fires in the mountains (which of course, Ian, as a fire fighter, noticed first!), and then, it was heart-wrenching to see his reaction as we passed by a fire that was right beside the road- he said that back in Canada, three vehicles would have already stopped to help out there, but we kept on rolling, of course, as did everyone else. Actually, as an aside, I saw my first firetruck since coming to Haiti as I was waiting for Ian to arrive- it was a giant truck, with black smoke belching out of it, and an engine that sounded like it could kak out at any point in time!

Then, we thought we were coming to Deslandes that night, but Jean Baptiste was tired, so he decided we would just go to Verrettes, as it was closer. The problem is, his cousin had the house key, so he dropped us off at a bar and he went to get the key. Ian was tired, so when Jean Baptiste returned, I suggested he take Ian home and get him tucked in, and then he could return and we would order dinner. A few minutes later, they both arrived back at the restaurant…exclaiming that there weren’t any beds in Verrettes. Jean Baptiste had somehow forgotten that the beds had been brought to Deslandes, in anticipation of all of the guests who were coming in. Oh boy! So, Jean Baptiste suggested we go to his cousin Tina’s, and sleep there. He took Ian, and I stayed at the bar, waiting for dinner to arrive. After we ate, and got to Tina’s, Ian’s room had just been readied, but Tina told me I would have to wait for a few minutes for her to fix up my room. Ian & I hung out in his room, and I’m sure we chatted for at least 30 minutes or so…and at 11:15, Ian went to sleep…and my room wasn’t ready until 1:00am! I was soooooooo tired. And as these things go, Jean Bap woke us up at 6am, saying we had to go. So, very little sleep that night.

We made it to Deslandes, got the lay of the land, and I had some really nice cuddles & welcomes from my sweet little friends here. Ian & I planned out the washroom, but somehow didn’t get to working on it, apart from staking it out. It was extremely hot, so we went to sit under a shady tree. Some of my wee friends found me, and came and sat with me, wanting to hold my hand and cuddle. Oh, fill me, fill me! That was such a nice welcome!

Today was much more productive, although it was as hot as yesterday. We dug out the trench, along with Ionel, a local fellow. The trench is now filled with gravel, and we got the earth bags leveled & filled as well- so that feels good. Onward with a poured bond beam, and then the larson trusses. Looking forward to it!